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> HD In-wall Powered Subwoofer Installation Instructions >
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How to Install HTD In-Wall Powered Subwoofer
Click Here to download a printable version
You will need the following tools:
After checking for stud locations and confirming there are no obstructions hidden behind the wall, position the cardboard template and trace along the inside edge.
TIP: Check for obstructions before you cut the hole. Drill a small hole in the center of the area you plan to mount the speaker. Cut a piece of coathanger wire and bend it with a 90 degree angle. Insert the wire into the small hole and fish around to make sure that no pipes, studs, or other objects will get in the way. If you do find something, you can easily patch the small hole you drilled. Otherwise, cut the big hole with confidence!
Cut along the traced line using a drywall saw or rotary drill. A utility knife will also work but is more difficult to control for beginners.
TIP: Use a drywall saw to cut the hole. A utility knife will make the cleanest cuts in drywall, but a utility knife can be difficult to control by a non-expert. Electric rotary saws make cutting drywall physically easy, but they too can be difficult to control. A simple, inexpensive drywall saw (about $10 at your local hardware store) is the best bet for beginners. The speaker's frame will cover up any rough edges.
Insert wood mounting bracket through the hole, with the curved portion facing toward the center of the hole. The wood bracket should sit against the back side of the drywall
against the stud. Center the bracket up/down so it is centered vertically in the side of the hole. Screw the two pre-threaded screws into the stud. This will hold the bracket securely in place. (Repeat process for second bracket on opposite side of the hole.)
Removing the grilles from the in-wall powered subwoofer is easy if you know a couple of tricks.... Here they are:
Brand new (un-installed) subwoofer:
- Using an awl, insert the hook end of the awl into a hole of the grille (along the edge not in the center). Pull firmly to raise the grille from the seat. Repeat at multiple positions around the edge of the grille until it pops off.
Reverse Mounting Hole Method
- Turn subwoofer facing away from you. Find the four mounting holes located on the back. (These holes will be used to mount the subwoofer to the wooden mounting brackets later.) Insert a straight, thin, sturdy object (such as a nail, or thin screw driver) into one of the four holes and apply slight pressure. This will in turn apply pressure to the back of the grille dislodging it from the subwoofer frame. (Repeat in each of the four mounting screw holes if necessary)
Paper Clip Method
- Bend a paperclip into the shape of a “J” and then inserting the “J” through the small holes in the grille, along the edges. Pull on the paperclip “J” and the grille will lift out of the subwoofer.
Use either the
Paper Clip Method
Note: The grille is intentionally very tight inside the frame. A loose grille would buzz or rattle during loud or bass-heavy operation. This "press-fit" design is used by most of today's manufacturers.
With the gold-plated spring-loaded speaker cable connectors positioned at the TOP of the subwoofer, insert the Subwoofer into the hole in the wall. Push the Subwoofer up against the drywall and hold it with your hand.
Insert your pencil or a long nail through each of the four holes in the front corners of the Subwoofer to mark each hole location on the wood bracket that is now directly behind each hole.
Remove subwoofer from the hole cut in the dry walland set it aside.
Using a 1/8” drill bit, drill pilot holes into the wood brackets at the four previously marked locations. This prevents the wood from splitting when the screws are driven in.
If you have not already done so, run the 2-conductor speaker cable from the location of the SDA-100 Amplifier, to this wall-space where the Subwoofer will go. Allow some extra cable length at the end for ease of connection. Strip about 3/8” of insulation off of the ends of the two wires in the speaker cable. But do not connect subwoofer at this time.
Cut two 1' pieces of batt insulation. Slide one piece into the wall cavity above and below the subwoofer location.
Peel the backing off of the included foam tape to expose the adhesive. Attach the foam tape around the BACK surface of the Subwoofer’s outer plastic frame (about 1⁄2” in from the outer edge.) The non-sticky side of the foam tape should be facing out. The foam tape will be out of sight when the Subwoofer is installed, and it will seal the gap between the Subwoofer’s frame and the wall to prevent vibration and rattling.
Pick up the Subwoofer and hold it near the hole in the wall. Connect the speaker wires to the Subwoofer by pressing down on the gold-plated spring-loaded cable connectors on the back, top of the Subwoofer, and inserting one of the stripped ends into each one. Be sure to connect the speaker wires to the correct Red (+) and Black (-) connectors
Insert the Subwoofer into the wall opening with the speaker connectors at the top. Using the four black Phillips-head screws (included), insert one through each of the four holes in the corners of the front of the subwoofer and screw them into the wood bracket. This will compress the foam tape and pull the Subwoofer snugly against the wall. Tighten the screws just enough to pull the Subwoofer snug, but do not over-tighten them enough to warp the outer frame.
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